DIY Security Bars || Basement Window Redo
With the patio project going, I figured it was time to at least begin addressing some of the loose items in the immediate vicinity of it. One item in particular, a hinged basement window that had unfortunately been broken during, well, a break-in. Yep, it happened for us just after Christmas last year. In other words, Security was a concern.
In this article, I detail the process of assembling my DIY Security Bars. I cover: How to Build the Frame, How to Make the Bars (Spoiler: I fill my bars with spray foam) and How to Install the Security Bars. (Click to Jump immediately to any section below.)
The gist of what I did and what it would take to make these DIY Security Bars:
- Rip two 2x4s in half & cut them to length. Two long 1x2s and two short 1x2s will be needed.
- Line up the short 1x2s and clamp them together. Working from the middle, determine a bar spacing.
- Measure and mark off the bar interval using a speed square.
- Drill 7/8” deep holes at each marking with a 15/16” paddle bit.
- Optional: A quick and dirty mortise and tenon system can made using a chop saw, hand saws and sharp chisels.
- Cut ¾” rigid (metal) electrical conduit to length. One side of each will be filled with spray foam at this point.
- Attach both long 1x2s to one short 1×2 (Make sure your drillings face in).
- Insert foamed-ends into the assembled portion of the frame.
- Tip the assembly up and fill the other end of bars with expanding spray foam. Agitate bars as needed.
- Feed finished bars into the drillings of other short 1×2 and attach the final short 1×2.
- Check square on the frame and clamp with corner clamps.
- Spray paint the entire assembly.
Now, I had already worked on getting this window in place. It is a wood window; in fact, all the windows in the house remained wood. I always particularly liked this particular window, because it is, idk … unique. Two 2-foot panes hinged both at the frame and at the meeting stile in the center. I always figured this window served some practical purpose in the distant past. Coal? idk.
I replaced the pane of glass on the left, the one that was broken, yes, last December. But I never got around to glazing or re-painting it. Why? Well, because I became concerned about this window as a vulnerability, and initially I just covered it with a piece of plywood. That is – until I could get a more permanent fix in place. (Maybe you had seen it in some of the shots I have taken from the (old) patio.) Also in this part of the foundation, I Repointed the Brick, as detailed there.
Security at a Basement Window
We (Mrs. Moxie & I) discussed briefly the idea of installing glass block in the opening, as that would surely secure things. But really, I wasn’t cool with it. I still liked the idea of being able to open that window. I may add a foundation fan one day and this window does already do wonders for air circulation down there.
So I then turned my attention to security bars. But on checking both the Home Depot and Lowe’s, not one thing that either place had would have worked. This then meant that I could do a little internet shopping or I could have something custom made. That, or I could build a set of my own. And ultimately, I built this set of security bars from materials I had lying around. The total cost as some folks would have it … $0. A set of $0 DIY security bars.
Together with a new planter box and some plantings, they should do a great job at deterring anyone thinking about trying to get in via this window.
Plus – I have since added in a window sensor, as I finally fired up my security system.
Building a Set of DIY Security Bars
While it would have been nice to have had some black iron pipe, as it is strong, and as it allows for threaded fittings … being used in everything from railings to shelving, I didn’t have any and I didn’t want to buy any.
What I did have was a bunch of ¾” rigid (metal) electrical conduit. While I considered running the bars vertically, I decided to save a little effort by running them horizontally, for a total of five bars at about 40” each or 1 and ¾ of two 10’ sticks of electrical conduit. I cut them to length on my chop saw.
To make a frame, I took two 2x4s and ripped them in half using my table saw. I cut my members to the exact length, two long ones and two shorter ones. Laying out on my temp work table, I labeled top/bottom, front/back and up/down. It was as this point that I determined my bar spacing. I took my two vertical members and using a method that worked with making a metal rail a few years back, I sat them side by side and found the center of each, lengthwise. I then clamped them together and marked across each board at its centerpoint using a speed square.
To assemble, I would do a real quick and dirty mortise and tenon, combining the table and shop saw with a little light chisel work. I test fit everything, and once I was happy enough, I finished with the markings for the remaining rail positions. Having laid out and looking at the length of the entire assembly, I worked out from the middle creating a 3 ½ inch spacing. I then drilled a 7/8” deep hole at each marked location with a 15/16” paddle bit (roughly the outside diameter of my ¾” electrical conduit).
Making the Bars
Now, one my biggest concerns with using this material for bars was that they are hollow. While I considered pouring concrete into them, either wet or better dry – I decided against it as the concrete itself wants to absorb moisture. I figured having concrete inside a rust-prone material like steel – probably not a good idea. In retrospect, I guess sand (which I had for the patio) would have been okay.
Instead, I decided to fill my “bars” with expanding spray foam. While I’ll admit not super easy, I think I was successful enough. I filled one end of each pipe using a delicate gun hand, and assembled that one end into the holes I drilled. Then flipping my bars (and half assembled frame) up on its side, I worked to fill the rest of the bars.
I taped two spray foam applicators tubes together (it didn’t work great) and I filled each bar a little bit at a time in several passes. The foam settled down into the bar as I went, and a small flashlight was very handy at confirming this.
I finished by adding the member at the other side of the bars. I glued up my tenons and my mortises and assembled the whole thing using a little light persuasion (read: a rubber mallet). Each corner was clamped using corner clamps (on Amazon there). And after checking with both a square and then measuring my diagonals (ensuring square), I then cut six 1 & ½ inch lengths from a short dowel. Drilling, gluing, I then hammered these in one each at the bottom corners, two each at the top corners.
I used glue to fill in some gaps in my fit and around the bars themselves. After it set up for a bit, I placed the assembly up against the fence and sprayed it black with Krylon’s Rust Protector. (This product was a prize/gift that I received from the company at the end of last year.) I let it dry thoroughly for, well, a week.
Installing (My) DIY Security Bars
The following weekend, I added in some rough made jamb extensions to the inside of the window frame. After all, my bars would need to clear the window hardware. I mounted my security bars with a set of galvanized utility hinges, set at the bottom rail of the bar frame. To give the whole thing a little extra strength, I added a pair of corner braces also at the bottom. With the bars folded down, I put a ¼” notch at the bottom of each window pane, so that the window could clear the bar’s hinges without issue.
I removed my temporary ply, I glazed the window repair and painted all 12 sides of the window. I secured it at the top on one side with a “locking” barrel bolt. On the other side with a hasp and a spare padlock. While I haven’t yet, I plan to add in nylon spacers, so the bars will sit tighter against the window.
Anyways, again this isn’t so much of a how-to or a brag, as much as there might be some technique in here that would help.
To read more on unique DIY projects or to learn more about improving your Home Security set-up, please stick around. For information about installing “store” bought security bars, here’s an article from friends at DoItYourself.com – Installing Security Bars for Windows.
That’s it and cheers. ~jb
10 thoughts on “DIY Security Bars || Basement Window Redo”
What a difference from that plywood treatment! Kudos to you for filling those bars, it looks great!
Ha! Cristina … something I just needed to do. it’ll look even better when I finish up with that box (hopefully this weekend) … hope your Friday and well this weekend are productive too. ~jb
Concerning the $0 DIY Security Bars–I see the weakest link in the whole project. While the construction of the bars is solid, the attachment of the bars to the window frame is not. It is held on by wood screws. I would think that a burglar could open the window, then kick in the frame. The only thing working against the frame being kicked in, is the short-length wood screws. I would suggest that holes be drilled through the window frame, and bolts passed through the entire depth of the frame, from the outside, with double nuts on the inside.
hey Fred thanks for chiming in and definitely noted. I’m feeling okay based on the fact the I am bolted and hasped (as well as hinged) at multiple locations around the perimeter of the frame. To kick the bars in an a*hole would have to break glass – the right pane is plexi and get athletic as to position him/herself. then crawl through. I’ll note this window is monitored for alarm and motion too. I know there are some motivated douchebags out there, but again I feel good that I am providing a reasonable amount of protection where there was once none. thanks. ~jb
Agreed; there is much more protection than existed before. Anything to stop a burglar is great. I was searching for window protection bars, which is how I found your site. The bars sold in Home Depot seem to be mounted without much strength. I have fashioned bars across the outside of the window, bolted through the frame. One must always think like a burglar.
sounds like a great solution Fred. I think I shied away from bolting to the outside because I wanted to maintain the option of loading things in and out of that window if need be. cheers and thanks for your comments. ~jb
Pretty darn good! I like that you can fold it down so you can open the window or get out if need be. In fact, I think it qualifies as genius!
cheers Eloise. Thank you for reading. ~jb
Here is an idea that I used to secure all my jalousie glass louver windows using 5/8″ metal conduit, 1/4 x 1 1/4″ bolts, & 1/4″ self locking nuts. Cut the conduits to the length of the frame, smash both ends, then drill the holes through the center of the frame and smashed end and secure bolt with self locking nut on the inside. Line up the bar between the 2nd & third jalousie from the bottom in the closed position. Each bar has two jalousies between them. It is almost invisible if done between the screen and glass. I use seven bars per window because I want the top open in case of a fire. Please call 808 456-2189 if you have any questions.
Alvin thanks for sharing your procedure for working with jalousie windows… very helpful for those that might be looking. ~jb