We have been working on the siding of our home from about the time we bought it. The early decisions to keep its German clapboard siding (probably more technically called “German Lap“), along with its 2-over-2 wood windows dominated my todo list for the first few years. With help from time to time, I have weatherstripped windows (and doors), scraped and stripped paint, replaced sections of that siding, flashed, caulked and of course eventually repainted. I am finally at the point now where I can say – I can almost see the light at the end of that tunnel.
Last fall, I had a little help. I got a hand from a recent college grad, a student of film, a Frenchy – Timothee with two “ee’s”. He had been doing a number of small jobs around our neighborhood; he is conscientious, and is always willing too to learn. (Frankly, I can’t wait for the day when I can afford him again.) Anyway …
Building Moxie and DAP Products
Now, you may also know, that is – if you have been a reader of this blog, we have a pretty good relationship with DAP Products. Yes, that DAP Products – the world renowned caulking and spackling manufacturer. They happen also to be based right here in Baltimore. We have featured them several times, from … Great Tubes of Caulk in the Sky to our Tour of their Lab & Plant. We were there for the release of a new line, the DAP Spec Line. We have supported them :: Baltimore’s Newest Ace Hardware and they have supported us: 106 Yard Press and Sponsors.
I have even taken on a blogger challenge. Here you can actually find me working with my aforementioned wood siding and doing a little caulking. I broke out the DAP here too: Side Venting a Gas Dryer :: Dryer Vent Hook Up. And I guess you could consider that all my disclosure. Building Moxie has a … relationship with DAP.
Working with DAP 3.0 :: DAP 3.0 Review
It was through these experiences that I was introduced to DAP’s newest advanced sealant: DAP 3.0. And while I did use it on some small, rather hidden tasks (for example: While wrapping windows with coil stock) – I really haven’t had the opportunity to give it, well, a full, formal test drive. Until now …
My guy Timothee had stripped the paint and caulking away from the siding as in met our main chimney – a wood burning fireplace in brick. He repainted (though maybe a little over-zealously), but he didn’t recaulk where that brick met the siding.
And while I won’t go into it too much – before I caulked, I decided to clean up this chimney. That chimney, through the years, has had much paint (from poorly equipped painters) dripped on it. Here, I found the combination of an angle grinder, fitted with a 80 grit flap disc, followed by a brisk solution of muriatic acid seemed to do the job rather nicely. (Please be advised about muriatic acid: It is the most caustic cleaning agent I know of and is really only intended for outdoor and controlled uses.)
Other Options in Caulk
Now, on deciding to caulk, or should I say seal, at my chimney, I think historically I would have reached for a PL Premium product or perhaps OSI Quad (and okay, maybe in idk Sandstone or some other mortar-ish color). Both of these sealants are polyurethane-based and offer excellent adhesion. They are great for all (read: low) temperature use, and are said to be both paintable and self-tooling.
This time, though and you probably guessed, I was going to go with the 3.0. On first glance, I note a few of its characteristics. DAP 3.0 is water resistant in 30 minutes, can be applied at extreme temperatures (20-120 degrees), is Low VOC and has low odor. Unlike Polyurethane, and don’t even think about trying it with Silicone, DAP 3.0 is paintable but paintable in 30 minutes. (Okay, I did miss a little opportunity to test that here.)
Lessons Learned from Working with DAP 3.0
I learned, though, there are some nuisances with working with 3.0. First, you might notice that this sealant “slumps” a little … a little more than most caulks you may have used. And while I had come to the conclusion that this was an effect of the product’s desire to self-tool, my experience tells me, and well – the directions on the tube too, that smoothing this sealant may perhaps be best.
So, I did smooth it, and it is a good practice anyway – working sealant into the gap you are trying to seal. (Admittedly, this is something I try to avoid if at all possible with Polyurethanes.)
* Low Temperature Application & Tooling
I did want to do a good low temperature test on this product, I couldn’t get my old lazy butt off the couch when it was around 30 degrees the week before. This is important of course because it effects dry time. That said, it was around 55 when I applied mine. And I noted quickly that if I waited just a little for the sealant to cure, I got better results. What I mean – at that temperature and at about 20 minutes, I could smooth the sealant easily and almost like putty. Spreading and molding it almost, with zero mess and zero need for a rag. (Though it is still a good idea to have one on hand.)
If you are creating “pull off points” as you are smoothing, peaks like the one I picture below, either you are not waiting long enough or your tool (i.e. your finger, gloved as DAP would recommend) is not quite moist enough. Give a modest, but thorough wetting to your finger as you work. Re-moisten often and don’t wait toooo long for it to cure.
And either way, I was happy enough with how well the sealant went on. I tested its paintability as we moved into “you can’t be caught sitting on the couch” kinda weather. And maybe I could go around the rest of the chimney, too, cleaning. ha!
Happy Caulking all and thanks for reading. For more reviews of industry leading products, please see our category – Reviews. ~jb
According to DAP: “DAP 3.0 is paintable in 30 minutes which helps complete the job faster and saves time. In addition, DAP 3.0