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As I stood in my basement, looking up at the floor joists of the dining room, I thought to myself, “I guess I do know a few things about insulation.”

I mean — I know that snowy days are perfect for jobs like insulating a basement ceiling . . . with Owens Corning EcoTouch Insulation, of course.

Ha! And OK . . . . What I really mean is . . .

I know that insulation is meant to stop air movement.  You insulate the areas through which air can potentially move.

I know that this here article on Building Science from friend Allison Bailes offers an easy to follow overview on the basics of air movement.

I know that insulation (and/or insulation effectiveness) is measured by R-Value, the “R” standing for Resistance as in “thermal resistance.”

I know (generally) that the thicker the insulation, the greater the insulation value (for a given set of materials and if installed correctly).

I know that when you are insulating with kraft paper “faced” insulation, the paper (a vapor barrier) always goes towards the conditioned (heated or cooled) space (and at least in my part of the country).   And when cutting or installing, it is always best not to tear or puncture this paper.

I know that the most common insulating material these days is fiberglas.  Batts, Rolls or Blown.

I know that fiberglas insulation should not be compressed when it is installed.

&

I know that installing insulation correctly (yes, there is an incorrect) is a fairly easy task.

And this is the “look” that we should be going for (roughly):

image via basiccarpentrytechniques.com

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I do not know why we (OK, I) usually don’t think about insulating our home(s) till the winter.  It’s not like insulation doesn’t help, say — keep the warm out (hence the cool in) during other months of the year.  But it. just. is.  So . . .

Why Insulate Now? 

Well . . . personally . . .

Because it was on my todo list, though in not so many words – Insulate.  Insulate at least portions of my basement as well as add to the insulation in the “crawlspace” area up under our back rooms (built out in a porch conversion).

And anyways, and in the winter months, there is almost always a slight (but very noticeable) temperature difference between our kitchen and our dining room.  (You must pass thru the landing of a stairwell to go from one room to the other. )  And it is one spot, I think, where the original house was added onto, an addition — where things were not built quite so tightly.

A cool blast of air right there.  And with the help of Owens Corning . . . it was time to get it fixed.

How to Insulate . . . ? (Short Version)

* Before I started I had to first figure out two very import things:

1. What product should I use?  I mean – I already knew I would be using Owens Corning’s EcoTouch, but what (or which) R-value?  And Faced or Unfaced?

&

1. How much of it would I need?

* Taking that, I started by measuring the space underneath my dining room.  I measured the ceiling’s length and width (adding a little to accommodate both for “old house foundation walls” and “the band” < see my intro post at the link back there).

* I then measured the joist spacing, width and height, as well as the joist member thickness.

What I found here, as with most “old houses” (and built using a framing technique called balloon framing), the joist spacing was quite irregular, varying between a 16” oc in some places to, get this, a 20” oc spacing in others.

Beyond that I found that the interior spacing (inside of joist to inside of next joist) varied too.  On a joist space of 16” on center, I pulled measurements from just a little over 13” to sometimes nearly 16”.  (Uhhhh . . . old house!  And SURELY this would make for a little added time.  Oh well!)  I would need insulation for both 16-inch and  24-inch framing,  and . . . I would have to do some cutting.

Joist depth was, phew, easy enough at 10” and the joist thickness was actually 2” exact, making for a true 2×10 throughout.

* To determine which insulation thickness (read: R-value) I needed, I actually turned to the DOE’s “Insulation Facts.”   (Maybe you’ll enjoy these easy to read graphics, and hey, there is also some fantastic info on insulation usage back there.)

via DOE

via DOE

I chose R-30 . . . batts.

* To determine how much I needed I turned to this handy insulation calculator offered by the Home Depot and Owens Corning.  (I checked myself too with some simple math.)

* I took a quick trip to my local HD.

* Back at home, I cleaned my joist bays of all visible obstructions.  I cleared out as much space as possible (in the room) to make working easier.

(And really there it is, in those few steps above, the hardest parts of this job.  Oh! and then, there is the installation too.)

* While cross cutting of insulation is easy enough, rip cuts are, well, something I knew I wanted to take a little extra time with.

* Using a scrap piece of ¾’ plywood as a cutting station, a (drywallers) t-square, and both scissors and knifes (one utility & one folding) … I got jiggy.  Here is a little bit of my work(ing) below:

* And that’s basically how it went.  Measure, Cut, Hang, Repeat.

Taking special measures at the ceiling’s cross braces, I suspended the snugly fitted R-30 (kraft paper face up, of course) using Simpson Strong Tie’s Insulation Supports.  Note: In most cases, these flexible metal “pins” needed to be cut down.  (They are made, I know, for both 16″ oc & 24″ oc.)  I did all cutting here using a pair of end cutters and a little bit of ummph.

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While I am not quite finished with the entire room (about 70%), I wanted to get it up before the end of “insulation” season.  (Hope you don’t blame me and I hope it helps.)

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Something of a Review

I know that fiberglas insulation has historically be known to irritate the skin, eyes and throat.  And I guarantee that I have had more than my fair share of “itchies” after a day of insulation.  But, here, I have to give a nod to what the original DIY Guy (and his work) suggested.  The Pink, while much like other insulations I’ve used, had the surprising characteristic of being, well, a little . . . gentler for baby’s touch for these manly, and sometimes chainsaw-wielding, hands.

For the few hours that I have worked this project thus far, yep — sans gloves, sans sleeves (in some cases), no dust mask (though I probably would recommend it for dirty, dusty basements or attics), and, yes, sometimes sans eye protection … I only felt minor eye irritation one evening.

Call me guinea pig, and maybe I am building a tolerance.  dk.  And I can’t say I wasn’t advised; (shout to OC) here for recommended material handling.

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Final Tip and Full Disclosure

I know you know you need insulation . . . and it’s good if you’ve got it, but not enough, or worse, not understanding the why and the how can seriously diminish its usefulness (just sayin’).

Thanks out to Owens Corning for including me in this fantastic program, and if I have to say it, I probably should say: In accordance with FTC guidelines, Owens Corning provided the materials for this project, but these are my opinions only, herein.

>> Thanks for reading and enjoy your weekend.  ~jb

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But Wait! Even More Moxie

A sweet homeowner tool >>  Owens Corning’s Home Insulation Comfort Quiz.

. . . now I’m out, back maybe with update on my drafty dining room or maybe *fingers crossed* home energy savings.

Until then.

The first step is to avoid making these five common errors:

Cutting corners: Building a house can lead to expenses piling up in a hurry. While it might be a good idea to buy inexpensive furniture or appliances, it is not a good idea to skimp on things such as wiring, roofing materials or lumber for your house frame. Cutting corners in these areas to save a few bucks can actually cause financial hardship down the road, because a homeowner will find themselves spending tons of time repairing or replacing inferior material.

Choosing the wrong contractor: It is never a good idea to take the first offer. You should always talk to a few contractors and get quotes for parts and labor up front. Find out how long they will take to complete the construction project, how many people will be working on it and whether or not they will be sub-contracting parts of the project out to other contractors. It is also important to find out details on their experience and construction projects they have supervised in the past. Talk with other people who have hired them and if they are satisfied with the results. Getting answers to these questions up front will make it easier to see if they are worth the price.

Embracing a do-it-yourself mentality: Even if you work in construction, trying to build a house without professional help is not a good idea. People who work in specific trades such as carpentry or masonry have spent years learning the nuances of the trade and perfecting their craft. An average person without the same background in that trade will lack the knowledge and experience to do the job right the first time. If they oversee construction without professional help, it can mean added expenses for repairs to fix mistakes they will make through a lack of knowledge and experience.

Working without a construction bond: Taking out a construction bond – a form of a surety bond – is a good way to mitigate potential risks that come along with any construction project. Construction bonds offer a legal guarantee that a construction project will be completed as expected within a predetermined time frame. It is a method of protection for a homeowner and assures them some form of financial restitution if a contractor fails to complete the construction project in a satisfactory manner.

Changing plans while building: Indecisiveness can be a major problem when it comes to building a house. Once the initial blueprints have been created, making even small changes can mean delays and added cost to the project. Building a home requires extensive planning and using time and money in wise ways. A homeowner cannot simply decide on a whim to put a door in a different place or alter the size of a room. It creates massive headaches for everyone working on the project. Figuring out all the details before getting started is the best way to get a quality home built on time.

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Video update: Flying robots build a 6-meter tower.

That link above was posted yesterday to one of (the several) Facebook Groups I have recently found myself a part of.  With it, the poster wrote:  “Flying machines: the contractors of the future??”

Of course this intrigued me.  And before I go too deep, maybe I tell you it’s a post about a live-action exhibition at the FRAC (Fonds Regional d’Art Contemporain) Centre in Orleans, France.  The exhibit is entitled “Flight Assembled Architecture.”  A “swarm” of “flying robots” assemble a tower made of 1,500 prefabricated polystyrene bricks.  The exhibit was developed jointly by Swiss architect(s) Gramazio & Kohler and Italian robot designer Raffaello D’Andrea.

You can see the FRAC Centre’s exhibition in the video below.

Flight Assembled Architecture/Architectures volantes from FRAC Centre on Vimeo.

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Now . . . clocking in at almost eight minutes, and while I watched, this vid gave me a little time to think.

What if?  I mean — What if little tiny ‘bots could replace the construction workers/contractors of the world?  What would that mean?

Hmmmm . . . jotting quickly:

• For the builders and/or homeowners of the world — no more communication breakdowns, no lip-back and no more plumbers crack.   No more loafing or re-dos, no mud on the carpet, no lunch breaks . . . hmmmm.  No more cost overruns . . . ?  Wow, accurate estimates, too?
• For the architects and designers of the world — your vision (and as if it was not already immensely important) executed flawlessly, and well . . . no lip-back, no lunch breaks, and really . . . all the other stuff listed above.
• For the diyers of the world — How ’bout your own personal . . . “DIY. . . Hymie”?  HA! A DIYBot?  Hmmmm.  It  could still get in too deep or do it just right.  But would you still get that intense sense of personal satisfaction?

And Okay… I only had a few minutes to hack this out, but what do you think?

What could a robot do just a little bit better than that live-action contractor you know?  I mean  — minus the human factor, would the work improve? 

Or Hey, for the craftspeople of the world, what of your hard work, the job security and . . . the legacy?  I welcome any of your thoughts in the comment section below . . . that is, ‘less of course, you’re a ‘bot, android, cyerborg, or . . . a spider.

via iment.com

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Thanks for reading and happy day.  ~jb

Eric Miller

“Eric Miller is the Director of Communications for, Studio M Interiors, a well known interior design firm based out of Tampa Florida. There he oversees the marketing, social media, special events, public relations, and overall imagery for the firm. He is also the editor for the company’s blog and is responsible for hiring writers and managing the sites editorial calendar. Eric is a graduate of Florida State University where he majored in Political Science. Although he is not an interior designer, Eric, prides himself on bringing his creative outlook not only to the firm but to every aspect of his personal life.

Eric comes to Studio M with over six years of experience in strategic management and communications for two high-profile real estate developments in the Tampa Bay area. His broad experience included managing construction schedules, budgets and personnel, while also coordinating the media relations and communications for each project.

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A few months ago good friend, JB, asked me to come on over and do a guest post for Building Moxie. Well let’s just say that he didn’t give any limitations, which is scary I know.  Instead of choosing a topic based around the home or construction, I decided rather to touch on something far more important — an epidemic sweeping across the globe! Now sit back, relax and please make sure that your seat backs and tray tables are in their full upright position….

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It seems that more and more of us don’t look forward to boarding a plane for our next vacay or business trip. Each of us has our reasons: afraid of flying, self-proclaimed “germaphobe”, or if you’re like me-hate being stuffed into a seat.

As a passenger, airline comfort is everything, so why do I feel like my poor carry-on luggage jammed into the overhead compartments?!  What is even more frustrating is that airlines have begun to exploit the holy grail of coach seating, i.e. the exit seats. These once highly coveted seats were a free upgrade for any of us without the deep pockets for first class. The only caveat? You must help others if the airline happens to run into a herd of geese and land in a near by body of water. Sounds heroic!

Most airlines now charge a fee to sit in the exit seats, which out of principle I will not pay for-what happened to the hero part?  So it begs the question, “Must I live and tolerate the airlines cramping my style?!”

I say H to No! Therefore, I came across a few secret seats (thank you internet) that most people overlook! The best part? No additional cost, plus you can get your stretch on! Ahh yea…!!!!

Most of you know that travel booking websites now come with a seating chart of the airline. For years, I would focus on picking seats that were near the front of the plane. Why? I wanted a quick exit! However, as I began to study the seating chart I noticed that the best seats were actually in the back or middle of the plane … OK hear me out! Yes you may wait any extra 4.33 minutes to deplane, but what is that time worth to you? Two hours of being wedged against the wall and/or an over-sized travel buddy’s arm?

But Eric I won’t get my drink or snack first!  Touché … but who wants that crap anyway? Buy your water and gummy bears (my fav treat) prior to boarding.  We all know the airline snack cart is a joke!

So without further adieu here is a list of a few seats to keep on the lookout when booking your next trip:

Air Plane: Boeing 747

Prime Seats: 60 B, C, J, H

Image via iflybusiness.com

Perks:
Only two seats, less people
No knees in your back or people behind you
More leg room, especially the aisle seat
Close to bathrooms (if no bad smell..haha)

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Air Plane: American Airlines 767

Prime Seats: 17 A, B, H, J (Domestic Only)

Image via Skytrax

Perks:
These seats are reserved for flight attendants on International flights…They are fair game when flying domestic! Holler…!

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Air Plane: American Airlines 757

Prime Seats: 10 A, F 

Image via Skytrax

Perks:
No seats in 9A or 9F=tons of leg room!

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If you are digging this, then you may want to check out Skytrax as they have an entire section where you can look up and evaluate an airline’s seating chart! I feel pretty geeked out right now…Excited over seating charts?!

My only rule in using these planning techniques is that you must always default the best seat to me when flying together… Happy travels!

~

Written by: Eric Miller

Be sure to follow me on Twitter!

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Note from the hosts:  OK. I have been bugging Eric, Ezy E – Cut Concrete – Stache Daddy Man, Miller for a guest post for, well, several months.  And this is what he came back with.  Maybe he was too busy flying around all over the place or something.  Nah! I’m not going to play it like that.  I know he’s a world-class baller Director of Communications for a internationally recognized interior design firm, but this?  This may in fact be our first post we’ve ever had that had absolutely nothing to do with, well, the house.  (Oh Wait! I didn’t just type that?! )  Moving on . . .

And it’s all good.  In fact when Barry & I set this Tagged thing down, it was EXACTLY what we had in mind.  Give the individuals working in “home improvement” a place to share . . . on whatever they wished to share on.  I do think it is ironic that Eric chose this topic though, it was in fact two jet-setting-type trips last year that brought E & I together. 

Other than that all I can say is — “Well Done” and hope to hang again with you soon Eric.  Thanks for reading all and send Eric a shout (you could leave comment below).  Definitely one of the good ones and you certainly will not regret making the effort to connect.  ~jb

Unlike a floor plan with many isolated rooms, an open layout is more free-flowing and gives the feel of one larger space.  Homeowners are embracing open floor plans because they are great for entertaining and conversation.

If you’re building a new home or remodeling your existing kitchen, here are several ways to create an open floor plan. For remodels, please know that depending on current layout of your home and the original construction, some of these options may not be feasible. Also, many of these methods can be used together to influence an open environment and reflect choices made in the kitchen cabinets.

Wall Removal
The best, most drastic method for creating an open layout is also probably the most obvious: removing a wall. This is a great place to start and results from pursuing this choice are apparent right away. By knocking down a wall, two rooms are combined into one larger space.

However great this choice may be, it isn’t always possible in every home. Walls may be load-bearing, meaning they support the structure, or they may be hiding plumbing, venting, and electrical work. In these cases, wall removal may be a costly, difficult process. If the entire wall cannot be removed, perhaps an interior window could be added to connect two spaces.

Upper Cabinet Removal
Many kitchens in homes built before the early 90s feature upper cabinets above a peninsula. If not needed for storage, the uppers can be removed to extend the line of sight and the amount of light let into the kitchen. In this case, the upper cabinets act as a wall, and without them the room feels larger and more connected to the rest of the home. As an added benefit, the peninsula becomes more useful, and can function as a conversation and eating area.

Peninsula & Kitchen Island
As stated, peninsulas are great for entertaining. But, they can be obtrusive and interrupt the flow of an open floor plan. One way to reconfigure the peninsula is to extend it from the wall at an angle larger than 90°. This helps better blend the spaces together. Or, another strategy is to substitute the peninsula for an island. Here, the island preserves the storage, counter space, and the conversation center, but encourages the intermingling of rooms.

Soffit Elimination
If you’re existing kitchen features soffits, one possibility for creating the illusion of a larger space is to remove them. Soffits bring the overall height of the ceiling down, thus cramping the space. After removal, extend the upper cabinet up to the ceiling. Taller cabinets will help add height to a room and give the benefit of added storage or display space.

Natural Light
One rule of thumb for open spaces: the more natural sunlight in a room, the larger it will feel. To add more light to a room, consider knocking down that will add another window to the space. However, if structural support issues won’t allow this, you can try enlarging an existing window or installing a skylight. Consult your contractor to see if these options are possible.

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Note from the hosts:  Thanks out to August from @CliqStudios for this contribution.  Look for them and congrats on their recent spots on the DIY Network‘s Kitchen Crashers w/Alison Victoria.  Or check their sharp Kitchen Remodeling Guide with Janice Pattee here >> http://www.cliqstudios.com/kitchen-remodeling-guide.  For more info on CliqStudios, see their About below.

LEED, and printed like that, sounds like “Lead” and stands for Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design.  It makes for a pretty catchy acronym.  To quote the website usgbc.org: “LEED (as in the program) provides building owners and operators with a framework for identifying and implementing practical and measurable green building design, construction, operations and maintenance solutions.“

Oh! Both Commercial and Residential.  (It also appears at the Community Development/ Neighborhood level.)

According to friend and LEED Accredited Professional, Roberta Kravette, AKBD, LEED AP ID+C (www.greenkitchensbydesign.com), “The LEED program is fabulous in that it caused builders and designers to begin to think about environmentally responsible design on a wider scale. Thinking about energy conservation and indoor air quality, materials and methods was not just for “tree huggers” any more.”

Again from the website:  “Developed by the U.S. Green Building Council (USGBC) in 2000, the LEED rating systems are developed through an open, consensus-based process led by LEED committees . . . .”

And that begs the question, what is the US Green Building Council … (sounds like USGBC)?  It was formed in 1993, and it “promotes sustainability in how buildings are designed, built, and operated.”  Like so many, I guess I always assumed that the USGBC was a government-affiliated agency.  It is not.  It is a non-profit trade organization that, again according to its website, consists of 78 local affiliates as well as nearly 16,000 member companies and organizations.

The current LEED directory, published in 2009, “contains 35,000 projects are currently participating in the LEED system, comprising over 4.5 billion square feet of construction space in all 50 states and 91 countries.”  The next one (directory) is due this year, 2012 (I think).

USGBC currently claims there are 170,000 LEED Professional Credential holders.

Oh! So it is both building certification AND an the accreditation program.  Oh!

LEED Project Registration

Again from the website: “LEED certification provides independent, third-party verification that a building, home or community was designed and built using strategies aimed at achieving high performance in key areas of human and environmental health: sustainable site development, water savings, energy efficiency, materials selection and indoor environmental quality.”

Here is the path one would follow to get an “undertaking” certified as a LEED project, qualified in turn to appear in that directory noted above.  (http://www.gbci.org/main-nav/building-certification/leed-certification.aspx.)

source: http://www.usgbc.org/DisplayPage.aspx?CMSPageID=64

To facilitate these programs, the USGBC partners closely with the Green Building Certification Institute (GBCI) who controls both the process of registration for projects as well as the accreditation of individuals that work on those projects.  In other words, GBCI actually administers the tests, manages the credentialing process for individuals, and registers and reviews projects that are seeking LEED certification.

LEED Credentials and Exam-Taking

There are essentially two distinct types of accreditations in the LEED program: Green Associate (which happens to be a pre-requisite for the second) and the LEED Accredited Professional or AP with a specialty.

Five overarching categories correspond to the specialties available under the LEED AP program. That suite currently consists of:

Green Building Design & Construction

• LEED for New Construction
• LEED for Core & Shell
• LEED for Schools
• LEED for Retail: New Construction and Major Renovations
• LEED for Healthcare

Green Interior Design & Construction

• LEED for Commercial Interiors
• LEED for Retail: Commercial Interiors

Green Building Operations & Maintenance

• LEED for Existing Buildings: Operations & Maintenance

Green Neighborhood Development

• LEED for Neighborhood Development

Green Home Design and Construction

• LEED for Homes

When discussing with interior designer and frequent contributor Tammy Dalton (http://www.tamaradalton.net), a Green Associate since Sept. 2010, I asked if her credential has proved beneficial.  Her response: “The direct payout for me getting my (credential) has been that I am able to secure ongoing freelance work on LEED projects, with more to come in the future.”  She attributed some this too to her (business’) USGBC membership, with her LEED credential being an added bonus/credibility-builder.

Final Ratings Buildings/Levels of Certification

Maybe you have seen the emblems as with the few pictures included.  Certified, Silver, Gold and Platinum distinctions are awarded based on a point system.  40 and 49 points for LEED Certified. 50 and 59 points for LEED Silver Certified. 60 and 79 points for LEED Gold Certified. More than 80 points is LEED Platinum Certification.  Certification is not guaranteed and only granted at the completion of the project.

For further reading, maybe here >> http://www.envirocitizen.org/article/what-does-leed-mean-what-does-it-do/6121.html or you could always check the USGBC‘s site @ usgbc.org.

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Thanks for reading and thanks both to Roberta & Tammy for assistance with this article.

You are doing energy audits, correct? Hope you don’t mind if I ask, but what are you charging for them? Personal not for print…

 

I am just trying to help {fellow blogger x} . . . she got quoted $500 for assessment and thought that was high.  Truthfully I didn’t know.

 

BG&E our local energy does a free audit & I guess I was wondering if they are all the same . . . .

Yes, I did a little editing for readability, as this was sent via Twitter, and of course we protect the innocent.

In answer to the pricing question, not only did I point him to our pricing page, but explained that $500 might be reasonable depending on what it includes. So how about those free audits, $50 audits, or… are they bad? No, not necessarily as I know a few auditors that work for some utilities that subsidize the cost (i.e. you pay $50 & the electric company pays an additional $250), and are actually worth a lot more than they charge.  Along the same lines, I know plenty of people that have overpaid or got taken . . . with a free audit.

While there are hundreds if not thousands of variations of “audits” performed daily, it essentially boils down to two types; survey style & diagnostic. The survey style can either be completed online or via a checklist (completed by the homeowner) or by a “professional” who comes out and essentially does that same thing for you. The diagnostic version is when equipment is brought in to actually get passed what can be seen to test the actual performance of the house &/or specific items.

Survey Style (Web Based – Homeowner):

LBL’s Home Energy Saver (HES) is one of the most popular & is the basis from which many of other existing programs out there are built from. Many utilities like the TVA offer them for free (and occasionally include a give-away package with them) as an inducement to see if a real audit or if performing any upgrades would be worthwhile. The issue with many of these programs is that they use what is called “simplified” inputs and that they are only required to be within 25% of actual use for 70% of the homes and within 50% for 90% of the homes audited. Personally, if you wish to use one (and don’t care about the gimmick give-away), I would recommend the HES version as it is constantly being improved.

Survey Style (The Walk-Through):

A walk through survey is popular with some utilities, salesmen, etc… and in essence is almost worthless.  In many cases, the auditor will provide you with a written or computer-generated report (suggestions, just like the type above).  Per DOE, RESNET, and other professional organizations though – Energy savings estimates and advice should only be generalized and presented with the qualification that a Diagnostic Audit is needed.  In many cases, a homeowner who keeps up with their homes maintenance and checks for a few obvious issues, won’t gain much from this type of audit except for a sales pitch.

Diagnostic Audits:

A diagnostic audit in many cases will involve a blower door & maybe one or more pieces of equipment to actually help one not only put a number to any issues, but to help locate hidden issues.  One of the most popular sayings in this arena goes – “If you are not testing, you are just guessing.”

I was at a house just last week that absolutely blew my mind.  I couldn’t believe just how bad it was, although everything looked great on the surface and everything was well maintained.  The upstairs duct leakage was over 30%, which one couldn’t have guessed with the insulation on them.  The downstairs was at least at 70% or more due to a hidden disconnected duct. The whole house leakage was dramatically higher than it should have been just due to those issues.  Of course there were other issues too, the big three – 2 fireplaces, attic stairs (not bad there, as it was weather-stripped), and a whole house fan.

Depending on the tests done, this can dramatically affect the time and actual cost of an audit. IMO, there are two tests that should be mandatory, namely the Blower Door Test (preferably tied in with an Infrared scan) and the Duct Leakage Test. Not only are both of these tests being required by the newer codes for both new or remodeled homes, but they are also helpful for finding the two largest trouble spots for many consumers health, safety, comfort, and energy issues.

Not to name names, like BPI, but many programs eschew duct testing due to costs or issues that maybe caused by improperly designed systems. Unfortunately as mentioned in a recent article on duct sealing, it doesn’t take much to turn a high efficient 5 ton system into an inefficient 2.5 ton system. As for the issues with coils freezing up, this should be addressed by the specialist working on sealing the ducts via a simple static pressure test.

A special word about salesmen audits & claims:

While I have met a few that will give it to you straight, most (salesmen) auditors are there to sell you their product. From attic vents to radiant barriers, from ceramic paints to windows, there are enough snake oil salesmen to give everyone a bad name. Being informed and forewarned will not only help you save money on energy, but hopefully give you a much more comfortable & healthy house.

In closing:

In the end it comes down to — the knowledge & abilities of the person doing the audit, what is included or tested, and if you are actually taking action on the suggestions/report.  Contrary to many ads I have seen, just having an audit doesn’t save you money. I would also highly recommend you consider having one done before you replace your HVAC equipment or before doing any major remodeling work. Nothing beats coming in after the siding has been replaced and spotting the insulation problems that could have been taken care of for next to nothing either when the walls were open or when adding to exterior would have helped eliminate those hot rooms issues.

(Sorry, had to show off our new logo)

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Note from the hosts:  First, love the new logo!  And lots of good info here Sean; thanks for posting it with us. 

I think I’ll leave it just like this, but I’ll add . . . for the record. for my part – and true story, I advised “fellow blogger x” to try to determine exactly what was (and/or was not) included in her $500 estimate, she did not fall within BG&E‘s service area, I had no success trying to get in touch with a guy I knew that was more local to her, and . . . yep, I did in fact turn to Sean for advice on this matter.  I guess we’re like that.

Thanks for reading and happy weekend all. ~jb